Since leaving A Coruna we went to Camarinas then went by Cape Finneterre also known as Costa Del Morte (Coast of Death). Cape Finisterre was at one point the most westerly point in the known world. We probably should have stopped and walked out to the end of the cape but the nearby anchorage was too exposed to the northerly winds. We wanted to go to a sheltered point and then take a taxi but while Glenda is getting used to the sea again and gets a bit seasick, so we elected to press on to Ria Muros. We anchored off Muros had a cup of tea then decided to go over and anchor off Portosin and use the WIFI at the yacht club there. This area is very busy with Spaniards on holiday in August.
Spent a couple of nights anchored off Portosin then went on to the next Rias de Arousa. De Arousa is the biggest Ria (Spanish for Estuary) and known to be the nicest. As we entered in the hot afternoon sun we saw boats anchored off an island beach so made our way there. The bottom dropped off rapidly so the anchor depth was 20 metres. Later all the boats left. At that point knowing the winds were from the north and onshore in relatively deep water we up anchor and went over to a more sheltered bay. We were the only pleasure yacht there. During the night the wind did get up so luckily we were nicely tucked in.
The next day we went to a marina in Vilagarcia de Arousa as Glenda wanted to do a 25 kilometre pilgrimage walk along the last part of the Portuguese Camino (Road) to Santiago de Compostela. I was going to take the Train! so we needed the boat in a marina. Glenda’s walk was in the memory of David and for all Juniper’s wishes to come true.
As much as I tried to discourage Glenda saying it was hot, hilly and she was not fit for a 25 KM walk she did set off and made the journey. It is unbelievable the number of pilgrims who arrive in Santiago de Compostela each day! In 2008, 125,141 pilgrims registered. Glenda saw a lot of pilgrims on her stretch and most had walked many days. The route is centuries old and fascinating. There are 3 main routes. The French Camino, The Portuguese Camino originating in Lisbon and The English originating in the port of A Coruna. The Cathedral is the most visited Catholic site after St Peter’s in Rome. St James is reportedly buried here. St James was beheaded in Judea and remains were taken up the Ria we are currently in, Ria De Arousa. Glenda’s walk started at Padron where a church was built around the stone that reportedly was used to tie up the boat carrying St James’ remains. Richard also did a little repair in the dinghy. Tomorrow we are setting of to Ria Pontevedra.
Glenda arriving in front of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral
End of the Known World
Elemiah at anchor
Glenda At The Helm
A Pilgrim and Husband
We have spent a few days together, resting, finishing loose ends from closing job and apartment in Houston and getting food supplies, including gluten free! Glenda arrived joyful to join Richard and sad to have lost Jazzy our cat of 13 yrs. Fortunately, Jazzy showed up to Juniper 11 days later, a miracle!
We also visited Santiago de Compostela by train and on arrival walked straight to the magnificent Cathedral. We happened to arrive half hour before the Mass in memory of the lost and injured of the tragic train accident. The Cathedral was packed, Glenda found a spot on the floor with a group of students from Virginia and Richard happened to find rest on the cushion of a confessionary. Well, he had his moment of fame! The TV networks had him live on screen for about a minute! Wet as we were, he looked like he had done a pilgrimage from Falmouth! 🙂
We could no longer wait for right direction of wind, so we sailed of on Saturday, August 3rd, with SW winds on our nose, therefore we had to motor our way to Camariños. Not ideal conditions for Glenda’s first sail in 20 months, so she navigated seasick, but at least with warm weather!
Richard installed a digital volt/ammeter brought by Glenda from USA to replace analogue instruments to assist monitoring battery usage.
We are nicely anchoraged in a charming fishing port!
Elemiah & I are still moored up in La Coruna waiting for Glenda to arrive from USA on 18th. Our friend and Crew Chris returns by air to the UK tomorrow.
Once Glenda has settled down from closing a home and job in Houston we are off to the Spanish Rias and around Cape Finisterre.
We need some sail repair this week which showed up on our trip. Annoyed at the sail maker who did not do a great job this year on a nearly new main sail we purchased. It took 5 goes back to the sailmaker! Anyhow not a major calamity better now before we get into some heavy weather.
Richard & Chris Binks set off at 9am Sunday 7th July and arrived 4 days later on Wednesday 4 pm in La Coruna Spain. See our track http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0iGbB9bnM7NdE772VGqTLpujr5YQMOOGI
The wind was behind us all the way with a consistent 10 knots or less. We had the head sail poled out most of the way. The water in the bay of Biscay is aqua blue. There were dolphins playing with Elemiah and one whale close by.
Glenda is now preparing to get on a plane to the UK then onto La Coruna on 18th.
The only thing we need to fix is the wind speed indicator and the man is on his way to fix it!!
Chris Binks arrived yesterday, he is crewing with Richard across Biscay.
The good news is that Glenda is leaving her current job and hopping on a plane July 14th to London, staying with Alicia & John then on to A Coruna. Can’t wait till she is here.
We have a tracking device so if you want to see our progress go to https://login.findmespot.com/spot-main-web/locations/history.html?reload=true
Best estimate is leaving on Friday. The winds look a little light and may stop off at the Isles of Scilly to take us a little further west.
By chance on Richard’s last visit to Hadzor over a pub lunch mentioned the trip across the Bay of Biscay and Chris Binks voiced a real interest in coming along.
This weekend Chris cam down to Falmouth for the night and looked Elemiah over and gave the thumbs up to crew with me.
We expect the crossing to take about 4 days and as soon as all the jobs on Elemiah are complete we will look for a weather window and off we go. As you all know, these last few years have seen very unpredictable weather so it may look OK when we start but who knows what will blow in!! Also, we want a good wind so 20 to 25 knots will be great.
Currently, we are waiting to get the 12 volt alternator reconditioned, the 24 volt alternator problem was resolved with a new regulator. Also, the wind indicator instrument is being looked at and hopefully back in service this coming week. We have a SSB receiver arrive so that long distance weather information can be picked up (we hope). One last piece of kit is to transmit AIS info. Right now we receive which allows us to see other traffic. However, transmitting all vessels with AIS will see us!! Of course the kit to transmit is expensive! The only other thing we are thinking about is the SPOT system that allows family and friends to see our progress.
That is about it to date.
Richard & Glenda